DMZ and JSA Part 3

If you’re going to do a tour of the DMZ, you want to do the tour with the USO, because they’re the only group that takes you into the Joint Security Area. After the train station, we stopped at Camp Bonifas, a military post, and were told we could not take pictures unless we were given permission. An American soldier got on the bus and took us to a building where he showed us a PowerPoint presentation explaining more about the history and dangers of this part of the tour. 

Then, we had to sign a form saying we were going into a hostile area and there was a chance of injury or death.

Once the presentation ended we were brought to another bus, able to take only cameras with us. We were led by a jeep of American soldiers and followed by another.

The first stop was Panmungak. We were put in two single file lines and told not to make any sudden movements or obscene gestures. We were brought through a building and then lined up on the steps looking at Meeting Row, the famous blue buildings where important meetings between the north and south are held.

As we stood on the steps, the soldier told us to look straight ahead, not to the left or right. He pointed out the building behind Meeting Row, and told us North Korea added the top floor because they had to be larger than the building on the South Korean side. They are able to tell the building is empty, and the southern soldiers call it the Monkey House.  After his speech, he took questions and told us we could take pictures, since they were taking pictures of us.

You can see the North Korean soldier taking pictures from the top of the steps. There were also a few upstairs watching with binoculars, and some on the sides with guns pointed. We weren't supposed to look that way so I sure wasn't going to take a picture of that!

And they were. North Korean soldiers were watching us through binoculars, taking pictures of us, and had guns pointed just in case something was to happen. Our soldier tour guide joked about it, but warned us if we crossed the line we were on our own and he wasn’t going to go after us.

The soldiers were standing guard, half of their body behind the building in case they were shot at and able to get behind cover quickly. This was explained to us as we were standing in two straight lines like we were in a shooting line!

I’ve ever been so nervous in my life! Being that close to North Korea, with soldiers watching our every move and guns pointed at us, made me really question my life decisions. But, I’m so glad I was able to do this, and definitely would recommend it!

From inside the meeting room, the line that separates the north (left) from the south (right). 

Guarding the door to North Korea

We then followed or lines into the main building of Meeting Row. The soldier gave us some history of the room and we were able to walk around freely, even technically on the North Korean side. We were told not to get too close to the soldiers because if we did, they would move you out of the way (not so peacefully, either).

The table where the important meetings take place.

The American soldier joked with us throughout the tour, making it seem a lot less scary than it actually was. Once girl walked behind a Korean soldier and the American soldier grabbed her quickly and shouted at her not to ever get behind him like that again. That was when the seriousness of the situation really hit us all and it was time to move on to the next spot.

One of many security towers

As we drove around, we could see different Northern security towers where they were watching us carefully, always with binoculars and cameras with really long lenses.

The site of the Ax Murder Incident

We drove past the site of the Ax Murder Incident. In 1976, a tree was scheduled to be cut down because it blocked the view from a UN post. A group of American and South Korean tree trimmers along with two American soldiers went to cut the tree down when a group of North Korean soldiers showed up at the site. Their lieutenant, Pak, told them to stop cutting it down because Kim ll-Sung personally planted and looked over the tree. The US Captain Bonifas ordered his men to continue and turned his back to Lieutenant Pak. A few minutes later, a North Korean guard truck came with more North Korean soldiers and Pak reportedly removed his watch, wrapped it in a handkerchief and placed it in his pocket before shouting, “Kill the bastards!” North Korean soldiers then grabbed the axes used to trim the tree. They then attacked and wounded all but one of the workers and killed the two American soldiers.

The Bridge of No Return

We then passed the Bridge of No Return, which was used for prisoner exchange after the Korean War. Many war prisoners that were captured by the US did not want to return home to North Korea. They were given the chance to stay in South Korea or return home, but once they crossed the bridge they would never be able to return.

Before leaving the DMZ we stopped at a cafeteria where many of the workers from both the north and south will eat during their breaks. There were signs throughout stating that North Koreans could not read any magazines, use cell phones, watch videos, or many other things.

Dinner

It was a long and exciting day, but such an amazing experience. I felt safe during the whole tour, but at some points I did think about how easy it could have been for something to go wrong. But, there’s no use in worrying about that stuff! I would definitely do it again and if you ever find yourself in South Korea, I absolutely recommend you take this tour!